All posts by Oliver

Roundtrip to the Ocean Expo Park

As mentioned yesterday, out hotel organized a trip to the Ocean Expo Park for us with another hotel. When we got down from our apartment, the promised shuttle service was already waiting for us and took us to the hotel where we were supposed to wait for the tour guide. Tour guide… aren’t those the guys who walk around with flags in Japan? And yes, there she was, our tour guide… with a flag. Please insert your own Blue Team vs. Red Team or other Capture-the-Flag jokes here.

Anyway, it seems that this tour bus picks up guest from all other hotels along the road and thus wasn’t really faster than the regular bus line. But we got information about the POIs along the road – as far as it was translated in the audio guide… which wasn’t much, since that mainly broadcasted commercials about tourist sites like (brace yourselves) The Pineapple Park – a theme park about pineapples (and other tropical fruits). We were very sad we didn’t book this for our day trip.

After two hours we arrived at our first destination, the Ryugujo Butterfly Garden, where they served us some Okinawa soba (we’re used to higher standards after yesterdays lunch) and allowed us to roam free for a while to visit said butterflies. They really got a lot there, as well as flowers and hats to pick up where the butterflies like to rest (probably scented).

After that we hopped onto the bus for a short trip to our main destination: The Okinawa Churaumi Aquarium. Actually it’s much like any other big aquarium you can find everywhere on the planet, with all the fishes behind glasses and stuff. But what makes the Churaumi Aquarium special is the huge Kuroshio Sea tank where lots of fish, rays (even mantas) and three whale sharks roam around freely. We will post pictures of everything in the Aquarium, but for now, please watch this video as a compensation (best viewed with your own favorite music instead of the video sounds).

After that spectacular view, we also saw a few minutes of the dolphin show and then had to get back to the bus.

But that wasn’t our last stop. You remember that comment above regarding the Pineapple (Theme) Park? Well, lucky us we got forced had a chance to visit that place as well. We were shown a bit about the pineapple history of Okinawa (I’m sure they told us about that, too, but neither of us understood enough or paid enough attention to be sure) – which included Christopher Columbus (because he “discovered” the pineapple, but was still a strange moment to see him mentioned there). And we were able to taste some cakes and snacks made with pineapples (good part), but didn’t have a chance to drive around the fields in a pineapple car or sing and dance the pineapple song (even better sad part).

One last stop was the Glass House in the Forest – which was obviously located inside the town – to watch a craftsman form a horse out of hot glass in under two minutes, which would be sold for several thousand yen in the shop. Speaking of the shop, of course we invested in souvenirs, but unfortunately they didn’t have t-shirts. And since someone didn’t want a pineapple shirt, that left him with only one shirt from the aquarium.

The trip ended with the ride back to the hotels (along which a young Chinese lady enlisted us to entertain her), a song by our tour guide (not bad actually) and a missed sundown (but tomorrow we will shoot it!).

Down to Downtown Naha

Our original destination for today was the Churaumi Aquarium, but we changed plans. It seems that using our usual approach (planning and doing everything by ourselves) would take about three hours just to get there and cost us a lot of money. But the friendly receptionist of our hotel had a better suggestion and swiftly organized for us to join a guided tour with another hotel and even promised us a shuttle service. I guess sometimes it’s really the better option to go the full tourist way.

Anyway, that left us without a plan and so we decided to take the bus to downtown Naha – which was surprisingly faster than our trip to the hotel, since there was less traffic. But we didn’t go the full length by bus anyway, since we figured we might as well explore the area and grab a few caches on the way. We were mostly interested in one that claimed to be very hard to grab, due to it’s crowded place. Well, it appears that is was quite the contrary, because there weren’t many lunatics that would walk around the city on a hot and sunny midday. Take that, cache owner!  And speaking of sunny middays, we already had our share of those yesterday – meaning: today we preferred shadowier areas to ease our slight sunburns, but hopefully the sunscreen offered enough protection for the times we couldn’t. Later, when we were in the real downtown of Naha, that didn’t really matter anymore.

The rest is about the usual. Walking around, getting some local food around early afternoon (tasty soba resp. tofu in little shop away from the main street where they only had a Japanese menu), looking for some caches (again only semi-successful), browsing shops (no t-shirts, yet), etc.  We even got the most important item of every town: A MAP! As soon as we acquired that legendary item, we found our way immediately. But somewhere on this island has to be an even more powerful map – one that contains and explains the full bus map, including timetables. Boy, that would be something – no more guessing which bus takes us where. I wonder if we need a big raid group and slay a sea dragon for this…

Naha Caching

On our last day in Seoul, we went geocaching – let’s continue right there, but here in Naha. We took a walk around the area to see where we landed in Okinawa. Let’s say we’re a bit outside of downtown Naha. But to make this walk a bit more productive, we went geocaching, which often helps to get to know an area. Unfortunately it wasn’t very effective, since in the end, we could only grab two. But maybe that was a good thing as well, since all the others we searched were too small to contain a pen… and we forgot ours, so we would get depressed for not being able to log them.

Anyway, our search led us even to the less frequented streets of Chatan (the part of the city we’re staying in). Like everything in Naha we encountered so far, most of them were a bit rundown. Being on an island really has to make things harder, which is probably one reason why the buses here are so old. (Being used to (and just coming from one) very modern Asian metropolises – not counting Beijing – doesn’t improve the impression.) And the American presence and influence is quite noticeable, one indicator being that this is the only place in Asia where we ever noticed a tanning saloon. I mean tanning, which is the opposite of the Asian ideal of beauty – in Okinawa, the hottest and sunniest prefecture of Japan. All of our wut.

Well, back to the geocaching story. For some reason, all but one of them led us to restaurants, although most of them were closed due to our earliness (restaurants rarely open up before early afternoon). But then a multicache required us to get the telephone number of a curry restaurant – and as the readers of our last trip might remember, that was one of Steffen’s preferred forms to assimilate his nutrition. It was a small shop – hardly larger than our hotel room – on the second floor of a small building, but with a narrow balcony that allowed you to eat in front of the ocean scenery. Very nice and the curry buffet was quite tasty as well. Maybe we’ll go there again, if we have enough dead time here in Naha. After we left, the final stage led us back towards our hotel. The cache itself was hidden in a nice spot, but had no pen inside, so we could only photo log it.

On the way back we bought pens, did our daily food and snack shopping and got back to the hotel to check on the laundry. Yes, we got our own washing machine and dryer in our room/apartment (a kitchen, too). While we surely miss the convenience of having a laundry service, this is way cheaper and allows us some extra washing runs. Downside: Everything on the controls is in Japanese and I can only understand a fraction of it.

Long Ride to Naha

Let’s make this really snappy. As you might have seen in Steffen’s post (well not really, since he lost his connection at the airport and I just published it a few minutes ago), we were on our way out of Seoul. To be precise, we were on the way to Naha (Okinawa) via Fukuoka.

To sum the day up: We had breakfast in Seoul, lunch in Fukuoka and dinner in Naha. In between we used two planes, a metro, a monorail and two buses. All in all, a very long and stressful trip. Especially annoying was our trip from Naha bus terminal to our hotel, since for once, we missed the first bus and had to wait an hour for the next one. And to make it worse, the trip was a long 80 minute slow ride to the northern parts of Naha.

So all in all, we’re beat. Having a little sinusitis doesn’t make things easier. But on the plus side: CALPIS!!!

Korean Thanksgiving

Today is our last day in Seoul. In the morning, we’ll be flying to Okinawa, where the last taifun just swept by. (We’ll be save, no worries. But for more information, check the Tropical Cyclone Information of the JMA.)

As mentioned yesterday, there’s a holiday today: Korean Thanksgiving. And if we thought yesterday’s streets were empty, we stand corrected, since the city was even more abandoned today. At least our innkeeper didn’t leave his post and guided us to Namsangol Hanok Village, where they had a big Thanksgiving Festival with lots of reenactment, music, stories – which we didn’t understand, but admired the passion it was recited with – and of course food.

But since pictures can tell all that way better than words… you should come back after we uploaded the photos… whenever that will be.

Aside from that, we searched and found some geocaches, didn’t find a lot of coffee (our favorite shop – probably the only one in town with just a Korean name on the front – was closed as well) and we are now done hiding/forcing all of our stuff back in our bags.

Spending Our Money in Seoul

Today was planned as our day off. But aside from trying to sleep long (which wasn’t really possible due to bright and loud surroundings), we were soon out on the streets again. It was shopping time. First, back to the Namdaemun market, where “someone” had to buy another bunch of t-shirts. (And since the first week isn’t even over yet, “someone” will have very heavy baggage at the end of the trip.) We also had some very tasty snacks there… twice.

Something was already noticeable: Our innkeeper had told us that this Sunday is Korean Thanksgiving – which means many people will leave the city to visit their families. On one hand that means the city is less crowded, smells better and looks even nicer. On the other hand that also means that many shops are closed for the (long) weekend. For a shopping day, that’s a bad thing… or a good thing, can’t decide.

Anyway, after having our first load of snacks, we walked on and found the Hoehyeon Underground Shopping Center, which has to be a paradise for collectors. Never in this millennium have I seen such an abundant range of vinyl records. Collectors of stamps, furniture, art and models can find a lot here, too.

Once we got back to ground level, we entered Myeong-dong. It’s a large shopping area for young people, that can be best described as Japantown or Little Tokyo. Seriously, I think I could’ve gotten along here with my Japanese (which is way better than my Korean – unfortunately that’s not very hard…). That was some nice preparation for the weeks to come, but I think we’re a bit too old not as “hip” as their usual customers.

For the final stop of our shopping tour, we went to Yongsan – probably the largest train station in Seoul. There are a lot of shops and malls around there where you can find anything you want or don’t want. We walked through a couple floors full of electronics and the conclusion is that stuff is a bit cheaper here than in Germany, but customs would kill any savings. Maybe with a lot of haggling you can make a small deal, but the effort isn’t often worth it. The whole Yongsan area is something one should explore (so we heard), but since we had enough and were low on caffeine, we preferred to get back for some coffee and chilling out (read: coding).

In the evening, we went looking for some Korean dinner – which was harder than you might think – since there are so many choices and we don’t have Sam’s nose with us to point out the best food. We ended up with some really nice Korean barbecue – which was a bit small due to some communication problems. So we went to our regular convenience store to pick up some dessert on the way back to our hostel.

Which is where we are now – writing postcards and this blog post (which was only supposed to be a few lines long, but we’re always happy to bore the world).

Back from North Korea (kinda)

Today we took a tour bus to the Joint Security Area – South Korea, Demilitarized Zone or short just the JSA in the DMZ as everyone calls it. But just to make sure it’s clear: The JSA is a small part inside the DMZ, which was intended for communication, negotiations and stuff like that. The only area where civilians can go to inside the DMZ and you can only go to one half – depending on the side you came from.

Hardest part (for me) was getting up at 5 am to be in time at the USO (United Service Organizations) at Camp Kim in Seoul. From there – after showing our passport two times – we took off in two buses along the river towards the DMZ – where we had to show the passports once more.

Before we report on the trip, lemme talk about rules. Rules are important and these especially. For once, you have to wear the right clothes. Or better said, you can’t wear the wrong clothes. Sleeves on shirts can’t be too short, legs need to be fully covered, as well as the feet (so no sandals) and no political or otherwise inappropriate messages on anything. No photographs towards the wrong direction, which mean no to the side you came from, so you don’t support the other sides espionage. No gestures, waving or finger pointing towards the other direction, as they could interpret that as insults and use it for propaganda (or as a reason to shoot you). Another thing is not a rule, it just doesn’t work there, so: No cellphone usage.

During this trip we visited several points of interest inside the JSA, like the Panmunjeom, which is the part where both sides face each other from day to day. We saw some observation posts and from there the South Korean and the North Korean villages, which were intended as a step towards unification, but didn’t work. We saw the famous Bridge of no Return (something like in the James Bond movie, just that one was – of course – fake), but for some reason were not allowed to leave the bus and check it out for ourselves. And also we went to see a North Korean infiltration tunnel, which ended in a nice stiff march on an 358 meter, 11° incline. And finally we had lunch in a train station, along the rails which lead from North Korea to South Korea. Yes, it was finally some Korean meal: Bulgogi (which was quite mild, I’m used to stronger stuff). Anyway, that train station and the rails are actually in use, since there’s the Kaesŏng Industrial Park in North Korea where South Korean companies can produce with North Korean workers. Since we’re talking about money here, this might be a way of unification that could work in the end.

Oh and why “Back from North Korea (kinda)”? Well, since the JSA has two sides, but a common meeting area for negotiations and stuff, we could walk a few meters inside that building to the North Korean side (till they kicked us out).

JSA Negotiation building
Left side South Korea, right side North Korea

After that, we got back to Seoul for a coffee, early leisure-time and a welcoming “Hey, you did not get shot!” by owner of our hostel.

Seoul: The cultural part

Today we checked out the culture in Seoul. We went to the Seodaemun Prison, where we learned a lot about the Japanese occupation and some of the hardships during that time, especially for revolutionaries.

Outside the prison was the Independence Park.

We went to the Deoksu-gung palace, which also houses the National Museum of Art. Well, the palace and the park were about the usual thing you’d expect (also telling a little story about one of the kings enjoying coffee here… a bit doubtful next to a modern cafe, but never mind), while the museum on the other hand had some video installations of modern artists interpreting some of the history of the palace and it inhabitants.

Close to the palace was the Seoul Museum of Art, which was quite interesting. Some video installations as well, but also fun stuff like social art where it displays current tweets from the area, a fly colony with it’s own twitter account, some kind of flight simulator, which one could control via eye tracking, a table drenched with honey and a video of a German performance artist, who wrapped himself in tape and leech…. don’t ask.

We also payed a visit to the tech mart, in hope to find some nice and cheap gadgets… well, that wasn’t worth the trip. But what was worth it, was our main meal today (around 5pm). Vietnamese Pho. Still no Korean food, but we’re getting closer… geographically speaking.

Seoul, the (unofficial) capital of coffee?

Some say Seattle is the capital of coffee shops, since it’s the home of Starbucks and you can find coffee everywhere. We’ve never been to Seattle (so far), but I think we at least found a competitor. But let’s start from the beginning.

Today we just wanted to stroll around the city, getting to know it better. We ended up doing a 23-25 km (even with a GPS logger we’re not 100% sure due to some underground travels) walk/hike through Seoul, going up from 10 m above sea level to 266 m at the foot of Seoul tower (with several up and down intermissions).

We saw all kinds of neighborhoods, quite wealthy ones and very poor ones, both regarding living arrangements and shopping areas. It seems that half of the city is paved with coffee shops, you can’t turn a corner without running into one. Some areas even have up to five coffee shops literally next to each other. You have to assume that the whole city is on a caffeine rush. The other half of the city is under construction.

I’ve got a theory about this. Seoul has a lot of coffee junkies, that’s for sure. But when too many of these extra-strong-tripple-ristretto types with a personal warp field gather in one building, it just fades out of the time-space continuum. And thus they have to build new ones.

We seriously had a hard time getting some coffee, not because we couldn’t find one, but because there are too many choices. Like you can’t walk through a Japanese city without running into a vending machine every few meters, it’s the same with coffee shops here. Of course we got some coffee after some time, but believe me, that wasn’t easy. One was at a shop that claimed to have the best burgers in the city. We decided to continue the tradition from our last trip and get some burgers for our first dinner out.

And after a long search we finally stumbled over Starbucks (but didn’t go in). You would guess that there are more of them here, but probably they can’t get a hold around here with all those other small coffee shops. By the end of our week week here we’ll either warp to Okinawa ourselves or fall asleep in the plane as soon as we leave the caffeine aura here.

In a total unrelated note, we got on top of Seoul Tower in the Namsan Park, visited the Namdaemun street and underground market and saw a lot of urban and downtown Seoul (with a lot of coffee shops).

Tomorrow we’ll report about our visit to the Seodaemun Prison… maybe… well, if they let us out again.